Surf Obsessed!!

Finally I’ve been able to get back on a short board after a few weeks out with my knee injury and the waves are pumping on the Gold Coast!

It is just an absolute joy and the best job in the world to be able to surf for 5 hours a day with friends, family and legends of surfing who motivate you to keep challenging your limits!

I’ve just come back from a whirlwind of a journey in Japan, a country of culture and grace and incredible food. I travelled from the city to the ocean – doing environmental talks on sustainability, ocean love and girls empowerment with the Sloth Club, shooting with the talented and gorgeous Marina Alonso for a special project I can’t wait to share with you, and hanging out with the GoPro crew for a week. We went to festivals, explored Tokyo city and drove for hours along the coastline looking for waves!

We surfed the barest of ripples on longboards, fish boards and soft tops – and it was always so much fun, but to be honest, all I could think about was getting back on my performance short boards on some big waves – turning, shading, swooping, sliding, floating, dancing…

The contrast of experiences again made me realise that the most important and sustaining thing in all these travels is to be true to yourself. With every encounter I learn something new about myself and the world – making it that much easier to step out of my comfort zone for the next adventure!

Now I’m getting boards and equipment and coaching and physical training and everything else I need to get together – with fantastic help from my sponsors and family – all to be ready in just two days to head back to South Africa – one of my all time favourite surfing destinations. So full of stunning nature, epic waves and the most open hearted of people.